Rope Tails for Clutches

Many control lines and sheets on race boats get led through clutches and other passages daily before racing. Jokes aside, pushing rope is never easy, so people have come up with lots of tricks for this like tape to keep the rope straight, messenger lines, cable ties and lots of other tricks.

These big boat sheets go through clutches and blocks every day they’re used, so a more elegant solution was needed. A piece of Nylon stitched into the tail of the rope makes a stiff but small section of rope that should run through any clutch.

Here’s an exciting video of rope!

Lifeline Lashings

T10 Backstay Update

The Tartan Ten is a staple of life at CYR. At this moment I have a T10 boom on the bench, and another strapped to the ceiling; there are 2 T10 backstays in boxes on my desk, a forestay just came off the swager, and there are 2 boxes of halyards and sheets on their way out the door UPS. T10s are the alpha and the omega around here! For every cool big boat project, there’s a dozen T10 bits, so I take them pretty seriously even when their owners come in looking for innovative blender solutions, or a shade of rope that matches their favorite beer can (both true)

Anyway, one of the specialty T10 products has been the fiber backstay. Proud to say that if you see a fiber backstay on a Ten it’s probably one of ours. One of the original pre-2010 backstays came in from the cold the other day, so I took the chance to see how it’s held up. This has 5 seasons of use including regattas, beercans and distance races. Pull test results will post shortly, but for now lets look at the condition.

The top eye is covered in chafe sleeve to keep it safe near the masthead crane. You can see this thimble is too large, as the eye has been crushed a bit by the top of the masthead crane. We started using smaller thimbles or no thimbles after 2011. The loads on this are light enough that a smaller thimble won’t distort under load, and even the pin alone would offer plenty of bend radius.

Here you can see what 5 seasons of the backstay flicker ring have done to the chafe sleeve on the backstay: not a lot This is a 3/16″ stock stainless ring, and it hasn’t made a dent in the backstay itself.

Here you can see where the top batten hits the backstay. The very first time we tried Dynex Dux as a backstay, the T10 top batten was fuzzing up the backstay on the first sail, so the chafe sleeve was added. The chafe sleeve is quite slick and tough, and the tight weave and stretching during splicing make it snag free. Very pleased to see how fresh this looks entering year 6.

We’ll break this soon and see how much of the rated 5T strength is left.

We broke this recently, and saw how much of the rated 5T strength was left…

The backstay broke at 5,640lbs, or approximately 53% of original rated strength after 5 years of normal/heavy use.  What’s funny is that that number is still stronger than the 1×19 wire it replaced.

Lifelines: Replace and Update

Lifelines tend to be neglected systems on most boats; if they’re brought into the shop it’s usually because something has broken, or the white vinyl covering has surpassed the disgusting-threshold.   They should be inspected and replaced as part of a boats preventative maintenance just like other bits of rigging, and the good news is that they’re cheap insurance and also a good place to improve safety and function.

The lifelines in the picture above are from a small cruising boat, and were part of the owners service schedule when he bought the boat several years ago (as a sidenote, one of the best life-easifying tricks ever is to asses a new (or current) boat’s systems and develop a multi year plan of repair:  you know what to expect in terms of spending and can spread out the projects) They are 1/8″ wire inside a white vinyl coating, with pelican hooks at the aft end,  little steel clamps to form the gate (a gate is a section of lifeline that can be released at one end without dropping tension across all the entire run of wire) and lifeline adjusters forward.  The wire was original, and the adjusters had been tightened until they had no thread left on one side.

Since they were past due for replacement,  obviously new wire was in order.  Since it was getting replaced, this was a great time to investigate improvements that could be made.

The first thing to consider with lifelines is the wire itself.  Coated wire was popular for a very long time, as it was more comfortable to touch, and looked nice (For about a season in the sun) The picture above demonstrates the big issue with coated wire.  It is prone to cracking when flexed, and when water gets under the coating it rusts the wire.  Even in fresh water this happens quickly:  stainless steel needs to be exposed to air in order to resist corrosion.  You can also see that the gate clamp is an imperfect solution when you want a lifeline gate. In addition to the clamp sliding away under load,  it also makes the wire itself the means of articulation.

Replacing covered wire with bare 1×19 wire is one of the few issues you’ll get pressure from me on.  The good news is that it usually doesn’t need much convincing:  bare wire is cheaper, stronger and will last much longer.  The downside is that it’s less flexible, and you don’t get the zen experience of watching white turn to yellow turn to brown turn to dust over the years.

The customer came to the shop looking for a better lifeline gate as well, so we were able to discard the clamp fitting, as clamps on uncovered wire are even worse than they are on vinyl coated. 

The picture above shows the old hardware (bottom left) and new hardware (top.) The clamp has been replaced with interlocking gate eyes, which are nice because they allow for more articulation of the gate, and don’t stress the wire.  The lifelines originally had 3/16″ thread adjusters in place.  The boatowner is a technically minded guy and enjoys rigging, so we made the swap from adjusters to a Dyneema lashing.  The lashing gives more range of adjustment and is less prone to damage/snagging. Of course, the line should be inspected and replaced regularly.

Using a lashing to attach lifelines also has an important safety benefit, especially for race boats.  A turnbuckle or toggle attaches to a welded eye on the pulpit/pushpit.  When using a lashing, the line can be passed through that eye and around the stanchion tube itself.  This means that instead of relying on the strength of the weld, you can put all the load onto the stainless tube.  I have been on a boat where the welded eye on a lower lifline has come free while the crew was hiking, but luckily it was only a partial failure of one weld.  The line went slack suddenly, and everyone leaned back while we figured out the issue so there was no swimming!

The last place to make improvements was at the gate fastening itself.  This boat-and many of it’s vintage-has a snap hook that is released by sliding a catch and then pulling the arm of the hook out of the body.  They’re reasonably secure unless the arm is bent. Or the catch it loose. Or the detent on the hook body is worn away.  The newer style of pelican hook (right) works just like a snap shackle, where you pull the ring to release the pin. It’s even easier to re-fasten, as you just close the hook and it latches automatically.

It’s worth taking a look at your boats lifelines to see where they are in their safe lifespan, and whether there are improvements to be made.  Feel free to contact me at kristian@chicagoyachtrigging.com or just send them in for more info and a quote.

 

Recovery Mode

If the picture above looks familiar, you’ve probably experienced the upper limit of a rope covers durability before!

This is an asymmetric spinnaker sheet made from New England Endura Braid Euro.  It’s a great line, very tough cover, but it still failed after just 2 seasons.  What gives?

Asymmetric sheets are very tough on covers.  They tend to have higher loads than a symmetrical spinnaker sheet, and are also trimmed more actively.  Things really get interesting in a gybe, when the line speed is MUCH higher.  In a gybe on a boat this size, you’re moving around 65′ of line every time you gybe, and the faster the better. On a boat like this with a pedestal grinder, you can pull the sheet around quite quickly, so it makes for snappy maneuvers.

What this means for the rope cover is lots of heat and abrasion.  Most assym  sheets start to feel a bit crispy in the middle, and that’s because the friction over the drums is generating enough heat to melt the cover.  The bigger the boat, the higher the loads and the more line to move, so the covers get abused more.

The solution is better covers,  specifically using heat and abrasion resistant fibers.  At the very top end we have PBO covers, which handle the highest head and load, but can retail for over $40/meter for the 10mm size. No, I’m serious, stop laughing! It gets better too, since they’ll break down in the sun and wear out quickly. Oh, and it leaves gold dust all over your boat and crew.  Anyway, the good news is there are lots of better-than-polyester covers that will cost less than a used car.  There are kevlar blends like Yaletail, and Runnertail (technically Twaron but who’s counting) but in the last couple years the default go-to special cover has been Technora blended with polyester. New England makes a rope called Poly Tec which is available as a cover or a built rope with Dyneema core.  I’ve been using this for the last 4 seasons and have been very happy with it, and have never heard a complaint about it from owners.  Marlow Ropes makes a full suite of specialty covers, but their version is Tech 50. The 2 covers are quite similar, so it usually comes down to which is available in what color first.  In addition to durability, you’re going to find that the grip on winches is more consistent, and they handle great!

So, let’s pretend your boat has taken your nice Dyneema double braid sheets and turned them into the mess you saw in the first picture. The cores are ok, but the cover looks like a shriveled churro.  We can take the cores out of the old line, and put a Technora blend cover over the top for less money than new sheets.  The cores still have a few years of life, so this is a great way to keep them going while get a nicer hand to the line and better grip on winches.

For the above sheet, the owner opted to swap both covers for Poly Tec, and gave them distinct colors while we were at it. The sheets were end-for-ended as well so the old loaded end of the sheet is now the tail and vice versa. The sheets look new, and should perform that way for many seasons.  Win!

It was a good idea in this case for a few reasons: the sheets were relatively new, the cores were in good shape and the core material was Dyneema.  If you have a damaged cover with similar parameters we can save it!  CYR also stocks regular polyester covers for a repair at considerably lower price point, although it’s worth considering why the cover failed in the first place (*usually T10 halyard with XAS clutch) It doesn’t make sense for every line though.  If the line is particularly short, the cost of labor doesn’t usually add up to less than a new line, and if the core is damaged, or Vectran/Poly/PBO it’s not usually a good idea to recover it.  If you’re in doubt, drop by the shop and we’ll look it over.  Plenty of samples to look at, and the odds are very good I’ll have rope in for the same repair to show you!

 

Tylaska 2015 Retail Pricing

Just received next years pricing from Tylaska

Looks like about a 3% increase for the best hardware around.  Don’t forget to stop by CYR’s booth at the Chicago Boat show to get great winter discounts on Tylaska and other hardware.  Can’t make the show?  But you’ll miss dock dogs! Oh well, email me and we’ll get you the discount anyway.

 

Tylaska Marine RETAIL Pricing 2015

800 Flanders Road Mystic, CT 06355 USA Machined Halyard Shackles Price (US $)
Phone (860) 572-8440 Fax (860) 572-0534 H5 Aluminum Halyard Shackle 118.95
www.Tylaska.com H8 Aluminum Halyard Shackle 128.95
Retail Price H12 Aluminum Halyard Shackle 161.95
H20 Aluminum Halyard Shackle 249.95
H5 2:1 Aluminum Halyard Shackle (with Pulley) 165.95
Snap Shackles Price (US $) H8 2:1 Aluminum Halyard Shackle (with Pulley) 177.95
T5S standard bail snap shackle 179.95 H12 2:1 Aluminum Halyard Shackle (with Pulley) 214.95
T5C Clevis bail snap shackle 184.95 H20 2:1 Aluminum Halyard Shackle (with Pulley) 326.95
T5L Large bail snap shackle 189.95 H8 2:1 SP Split H8 with pulley 188.95
T8S standard bail snap shackle 189.95 H12 2:1 SP Split H12 with pulley 228.95
T8C Clevis bail snap shackle 195.95 MP-2 Pull pin shackle 52.95
T8L Large bail snap shackle 199.95 Linked Peel Shackles
T12S Standard bail snap shackle 211.95 T5LP with Std/Std linked bails 459.95
T12C Clevis bail snap shackle 224.95 T8LP with Std/Std linked bails 481.95
T12L Large bail snap shackle 221.95 T12LP with Std/Std linked bails 529.95
T16S Standard bail snap shackle 249.95 T20LP with Std/Std linked bails 678.95
T16L Large bail snap shackle 259.95 T30LP with Std/Std linked bails 1134.95
T20S Standard bails snap shackle 295.95
T20C Clevis bail snap shackle 312.95 Shackle Opening Fids Price (US $)
T20L Large bail snap shackle 306.95 T5-T12 Knurled Shackle Fid (Red) 28.95
T30S Standard bail snap shackle 529.95 T5-T12 Knurled Shackle Fid (Blue) 28.95
T30C Clevis bail snap shackle 551.95 T5-T12 Fid (Double Tapered) (Red) 28.95
T30L Large bail snap shackle 556.95 T5-T12 Fid (Double Tapered) (Blue) 28.95
T40S Standard bail snap shackle 784.95 T20-T30 Knurled Shackle Fid (Red) 60.95
T40C Clevis bail snap shackle 815.95 T20-T30 Knurled Shackle Fid (Blue) 60.95
T40L Large bail snap shackle 837.95 T40-T50 Knurled Shackle Fid (Red) 91.95
T50S Standard bail snap shackle 1145.95 T40-T50 Knurled Shackle Fid (Blue) 91.95
T50C Clevis bail snap shackle 1183.95 PF5 – T5 Plug Fid (Purple) 14.95
T50L Large bail snap shackle 1203.95 PF8 – T8 Plug Fid (Purple) 14.95
X8A Sew-in Tack Shackle 141.95 PF12 – T12 Plug Fid (Purple) 15.95
PF20 – T20 Plug Fid (Purple) 16.95
Shackleheads Price (US$) P20SS – T20 stainless steel plug fid 29.95
T5 Shacklehead (no bail, nut, or washer) 157.95 CF8 – T8 Cone Fid (Green) 14.95
T8 Shacklehead (no bail, nut, or washer) 168.95 CF12 – T12 Cone Fid (Green) 14.95
T12 Shacklehead (no bail, nut, or washer) 189.95 CF20 – T20 Cone Fid (Green) 15.95
T20 Shacklehead (no bail, nut, or washer) 263.95 HCF8 – T8 Half Cone Fid (Blue) 14.95
T30 Shacklehead (no bail, nut, or washer) 471.95 HCF12 – T12 Half Cone Fid (Blue) 15.95
HCF20 – T20 Half Cone Fid (Blue) 16.95
J-Lock Style Shackles Price (US $)
J8 J-Lock Shackle 142.95 SP Trigger Style Snap Shackles & Presslocks Price (US $)
J12 J-Lock Shackle 152.95 SP6 Trigger Style Snap Shackle 197.95
J20 J-Lock Shackle 194.95 SP10 Trigger Style Snap Shackle 252.95
J30 J-Lock Shackle 328.95 SP15 Trigger Style Snap Shackle 441.95
PressLock Junior 161.95
Tylaska Spool Shackles Price (US $) PressLock Senior 190.95
S2 Spool Shackle 36.95
S3 Spool Shackle 39.95 SS Plunger Style Shackles and Pole Ends Price (US $)
S5 Spool Shackle 42.95 SS10 Plunger Style Shackle 369.95
S8 Spool Shackle 45.95 SS20 Plunger Style Shackle 791.95
S12 Spool Shackle 54.95 SS40 Plunger Style Shackle 1793.95
S20 Spool Shackle 69.95 Intrepid II 4.0″ 1124.95
S30 Spool Shackle 99.95 Stubbie – Inboard pole end 4.0″ 516.95
P4 Polycarbonate Spool Shackle 16.95 Stubbie – turned to Hall size 621.95
Tylaska Canvas Tools Price (US $) Gran Prix machines to 3″ 730.95
Sailmaker’s Punch 49.95 Gran Prix machines to 4″ 793.95
Sailmaker’s Installation Die (DOT Die) 34.95 Gran Prix Hall size 3.74″ 907.95
Tylaska Swivels Price (US $) Reaching Strut Outboard end 3″ 359.95
T5 Std/Std bail Swivel 99.95 Reaching Strut Inboard end 518.95
T5 Std/Large bail Swivel 107.95 Stainless Steel Stud Pin 156.95
T5 Large/Large bail Swivel 115.95 Stainless Toggle bushed to 1/2″ 151.95
T5 Std/Clevis bail Swivel 116.95 Stainless Toggle bushed to 5/8″ 151.95
T5 Clevis/Clevis bail Swivel 130.95 Bayonet Toggle Assembly w/Clevis (1/2″) 339.95
T5 Large/Clevis bail Swivel 123.95 Bayonet Toggle Assembly w/Clevis (5/8″) 339.95
T8 Std/Std bail Swivel 110.95
T8 Std/Large bail Swivel 118.95 Ball-Lock Clevis Pins Price (US $)
T8 Large/Large bail Swivel 125.95 B L 313-563 5/16″ x 9/16″ 34.95
T8 Std/Clevis bail Swivel 127.95 BL313-688 5/16″ x 11/16″ 35.95
T8 Clevis/Clevis bail Swivel 144.95 BL313-750 5/16″ x 3/4″ 36.95
T8 Large/Clevis bail Swivel 133.95 BL313-1000 5/16″ x 1″ 38.95
T12 Std/Std bail Swivel 125.95 BL313-1250 5/16″ x 1-1/4″ 42.95
T12 Std/Large bail Swivel 136.95 BL375-625 3/8″ x 5/8″ 34.95
T12 Large/Large bail Swivel 150.95 BL375-813 3/8″ x 13/16″ 37.95
T12 Std/Clevis bail Swivel 147.95 BL375-1000 3/8″ x 1″ 38.95
T12 Clevis/Clevis bail Swivel 164.95 BL375-1250 3/8″ x 1-1/4″ 40.95
T12 Large/Clevis bail Swivel 157.95 BL375-1500 3/8″ x 1-1/2″ 45.95
T20 Std/Std bail Swivel 156.95 BL500-750 1/2″ x 3/4 39.95
T20 Std/Large bail Swivel 167.95 BL500-1000 1/2″ x 1″ 41.95
T20 Large/Large bail Swivel 186.95 BL500-1250 1/2″ x 1-1/4″ 44.95
T20 Std/Clevis bail Swivel 183.95 BL500-1500 1/2″ x 1-1/2″ 49.95
T20 Clevis/Clevis bail Swivel 213.95 BL625-1000 5/8″ x 1″ 45.95
T20 Large/Clevis bail Swivel 198.95 BL625-1250 5/8″ x 1-1/4″ 48.95
T30 Std/Std bail Swivel 213.95 BL625-1500 5/8″ x 1-1/2″ 53.95
T30 Std/Large bail Swivel 242.95 BL625-1750 5/8″ x 1-3/4″ 57.95
T30 Large/Large bail Swivel 273.95
T30 Std/Clevis bail Swivel 255.95 Please contact us if other sizes are desired.
T30 Clevis/Clevis bail Swivel 295.95
T30 Large/Clevis bail Swivel 283.95
T40 Std/Std bail Swivel 398.95 Ferrules Price (US $)
T40 Std/Large bail Swivel 412.95 FR3 9.95
T40 Large/Large bail Swivel 425.95 FR4 10.95
T40 Std/Clevis bail Swivel 407.95 FR5 11.95
T40 Clevis/Clevis bail Swivel 443.95 FR6 13.95
T40 Large/Clevis bail Swivel 421.95 FR7 16.95
T50 Std/Std bail Swivel 475.95 FR8 19.95
T50 Std/Large bail Swivel 544.95 FR10 27.95
T50 Large/Large bail Swivel 611.95 FR14 39.95
T50 Std/Clevis bail Swivel 566.95 FR18 55.95
T50 Clevis/Clevis bail Swivel 657.95 FR22 69.95
T50 Large/Clevis bail Swivel 634.95 FR26 109.95
Dogbones (Aluminum) Price (US $) Dogbones (Stainless steel) Price (US $)
DB6 (light blue) 12.95 DB6 SS 16.95
DB8 (light blue) 14.95 DB8 SS 18.95
DB10 (light blue) 15.95 DB10 SS 20.95
DB12 (light blue) 16.95 DB12 SS 22.95
DB14 (light blue) 17.95 DB14 SS 25.95
DB16 (light blue) 19.95 DB16 SS 29.95
DB18 (light blue) 22.95 DB18 SS 34.95
Basic Clevis Pins Price (US $) 2 Hole Clevis Pins Price (US $)
CP2-375 (1/8 x 3/8) $ 2.39 2CP2-375 (1/8 x 3/8) $ 3.59
CP2-500 (1/8 x 1/2) $ 2.49 2CP2-500 (1/8 x 1/2) $ 3.79
CP2.5-375 (5/32 x 3/8) $ 2.49 2CP2.5-375 (5/32 x 3/8) $ 3.69
CP2.5-625 (5/32 x 5/8) $ 2.59 2CP2.5-625 (5/32 x 5/8) $ 3.89
CP3-281 (3/16 x 9/32) $ 2.59 2CP3-281 (3/16 x 9/32) $ 3.69
CP3-406 (3/16 x 13/32) $ 2.69 2CP3-406 (3/16 x 13/32) $ 3.89
CP3-531 (3/16 x 17/32) $ 2.79 2CP3-531 (3/16 x 17/32) $ 4.09
Basic Clevis Pins Price (US $) 2 Hole Clevis Pins Price (US $)
CP3-750 (3/16 x 3/4) $ 2.89 2CP3-750 (3/16 x 3/4) $ 4.29
CP3-1000 (3/16 x 1) $ 3.19 2CP3-1000 (3/16 x 1) $ 4.49
CP4- 406 (1/4 x 13/32) $ 2.89 2CP4-406 (1/4 x 13/32) $ 4.29
CP4-500 (1/4 x 1/2) $ 2.99 2CP4-500 (1/4 x 1/2) $ 4.39
CP4-750 (1/4 x 3/4) $ 3.19 2CP4-750 (1/4 x 3/4) $ 4.69
CP4-875 (1/4 x 7/8) $ 3.39 2CP4-875 (1/4 x 7/8) $ 4.89
CP4- 1000 (1/4 x 1) $ 3.49 2CP4-1000 (1/4 x 1) $ 4.99
CP4- 1250 (1/4 x 1 1/4) $ 3.69 2CP4-1250 (1/4 x 1 1/4) $ 5.29
CP4- 1500 (1/4 x 1 1/2) $ 3.99 2CP4-1500 (1/4 x 1 1/2) $ 5.49
CP5-500 (5/16 x 1/2) $ 3.99 2CP5-500 (5/16 x 1/2) $ 5.99
CP5-562 (5/16 x 9/16) $ 4.09 2CP5-562 (5/16 x 9/16) $ 6.19
CP5-687 (5/16 x 11/16) $ 4.29 2CP5-687 (5/16 x 11/16) $ 6.39
CP5-1000 (5/16 x 1) $ 4.59 2CP5-1000 (5/16 x 1) $ 6.79
CP5-1250 (5/16 x 1 1/4) $ 4.99 2CP5-1250 (5/16 x 1 1/4) $ 7.19
CP6-687 (3/8 x 11/16) $ 5.39 2CP6-687 (3/8 x 11/16) $ 7.89
CP6-812 (3/8 x 13/16) $ 5.59 2CP6-812 (3/8 x 13/16) $ 8.09
CP6-1000 (3/8 x 1) $ 5.89 2CP6-1000 (3/8 x 1) $ 8.49
CP6-1250 (3/8 x 1 1/4) $ 6.39 2CP6-1250 (3/8 x 1 1/4) $ 8.99
CP6-1500 (3/8 x 1 1/2) $ 6.79 2CP6-1500 (3/8 x 1 1/2) $ 9.59
CP8-750 (1/2 x 3/4) $ 6.99 2CP8-750 (1/2 x 3/4) $ 10.59
CP8-875 (1/2 x 7/8) $ 7.39 2CP8-875 (1/2 x 7/8) $ 10.99
CP8-1000 (1/2 x 1) $ 7.69 2CP8-1000 (1/2 x 1) $ 11.29
CP8-1500 (1/2 x 1 1/2) $ 8.99 2CP8-1500 (1/2 x 1 1/2) $ 12.79
CP10-1000 (5/8 x 1) $ 10.19 2CP10-1000 (5/8 x 1) $ 15.09
CP10-1125 (5/8 x 1 1/8) $ 10.59 2CP10-1125 (5/8 x 1 1/8) $ 15.59
CP10-1250 (5/8 x 1 1/4) $ 10.99 2CP10-1250 (5/8 x 1 1/4) $ 16.09
CP12-1312 (3/4 x 1 5/16) $ 14.69 2CP12-1312 (3/4 x 1 5/16) $ 20.99
CP12-1562 (3/4 x 1 9/16) $ 15.89 2CP12-1562 (3/4 x 1 9/16) $ 22.49
CP12-1875 (3/4 x 1 7/8) $ 17.29 2CP12-1875 (3/4 x 1 7/8) $ 24.09
Rigging Pins Price (US $) Price (US $)
RP4-1500 (1/4 x 1 1/2) $ 4.99 RP8-1500 (1/2 x 1 1/2) $ 10.09
RP4-2000 (1/4 x 2) $ 5.39 RP8-2000 (1/2 x 2) $ 11.09
RP4-2500 (1/4 x 2 1/2) $ 5.89 RP8-2500 (1/2 x 2 1/2) $ 12.09
RP4-3000 (1/4 x 3) $ 6.39 RP8-3000 (1/2 x 3) $ 12.99
RP4-3500 (1/4 x 3 1/2) $ 6.99 RP8-3500 (1/2 x 3 1/2) $ 13.99
RP5-1500 (5/16 x 1 1/2) $ 6.49 RP10-1500 (5/8 x 1 1/2) $ 12.59
RP5-2000 (5/16 x 2) $ 7.09 RP10-2000 (5/8 x 2) $ 13.89
RP5-2500 (5/16 x 2 1/2) $ 7.69 RP10-2500 (5/8 x 2 1/2) $ 15.19
RP5-3000 (5/16 x 3) $ 8.19 RP10-3000 (5/8 x 3) $ 16.59
RP5-3500 (5/16 x 3 1/2) $ 8.79 RP10-3500 (5/8 x 3 1/2) $ 17.99
RP6-1500 (3/8 x 1 1/2) $ 7.89 RP12-1500 (3/4 x 1 1/2) $ 15.49
RP6-2000 (3/8 x 2) $ 8.59 RP12-2000 (3/4 x 2) $ 17.29
RP6-2500 (3/8 x 2 1/2) $ 9.29 RP12-2500 (3/4 x 2 1/2) $ 19.09
RP6-3000 (3/8 x 3) $ 10.09 RP12-3000 (3/4 x 3) $ 20.99
RP6-3500 (3/8 x 3 1/2) $ 10.79 RP12-3500 (3/4 x 3 1/2) $ 22.79
RP7-1500 (7/16 x 1 1/2) $ 9.09
RP7-2000 (7/16 x 2) $ 9.99
RP7-2500 (7/16 x 2 1/2) $ 10.79
RP7-3000 (7/16 x 3) $ 11.69
RP7-3500 (7/16 x 3 1/2) $ 12.59

 

Tylaska RETAIL Pricing 2015

 

Beneteau 36.7 Running Rigging 2015 pricing Fall discounts available

We’ve finally got our act together and have 2015 pricing drawn up for the 36.7

If you’re using 3di sails we strongly recommend matching it with an appropriate halyard.  Vectran lines move a bit too much for 3di, so we recommend Heat Set Dyneema (New England HSR) or if you absolutely insist we can PBO 

MAIN HALYARD (Best) HSR 9mm W polyester Cover+Wichard 5/16″ Shackle+bulk 510.66
MAIN HALYARD (Std.) Vectran 10mm w Wichard Shackle+clutch bulk 393.75
GENOA HALYARD (best) HSR 9mm  TYLASKA SHACKLE BULK 603.26
GENOA HALYARD (best) HSR JH No Shackle, 9mm  W/ Bulk 458.26
GENOA HALYARD (std) Vectran core 10mm Tylaska Shackle 490
GENOA HALYARD (std) Vectran core 10mm  No Shackle 345
SPINNAKER HALYARD 10mm Dyn Spin Hal W Tylaska and Ball 556.25
HSR Backstay with Dyneema overbraid 361.96
Genoa Sheets 10mm Endura Braid with Equiplite EACH 310.8
Genoa Sheets 10mm Poly Tech with Equiplite EACH 450.2
Spin Sheets 8mm SSC 192.88
Spin Sheets 8mm Euro 203.8
Afterguy Euro W Custom Donut and T8 400.1
Topping Lift Tapered SSC Empty eye for shackle 255.6
0
Backstay Control line 6mm SSC 111.5
Traveler Control Euro Cover Whip 100.16
Spin Pole Butt Lift 6mm Euro 73.84

Discounts in place:  through 11/19/14 take 10% off for fall savings

If you’ve purchased a 3Di sail from North Midwest, take an additional 5% off matching heat set Dyneema halyards!

Spinnaker Sheet Y Bridle

Took these for a mail order customer who need a pigtail to add to their assym spin sheets, so figured it wouldn’t hurt to have quickie instructions for one method of setting up a Y Bridle.  This is applicable to assymetric boats only,  that have a metal clew ring or similar eye at the clew.

 

To start with, youll need a pair of sheets with eyes spliced into the ends (yellow), a short strop (silver) with eyes at both ends (for shackle to sail attachment) or a single eye (for tie on attachment) 

First,  attach the shackle to the strop via larks head/ring hitch/luggage tag/whatever you want to call it.  Start by passing one eye of the strop through the bail on the shackle.

Then pull the eye over the shackle


Once you’ve got the eye over the shackle, pull the line tight so that it hitches tight to the bail of the shackle and looks like the below pic

Now, put the other end of the strop through BOTH eyes on the sheets themselves

Pull the shackle through the empty loop and pull tight, should look just like this

There are several other ways to configure this setup;  you can splice the y permanently, which works the same but is marginally lighter/cleaner, or you can have 2 shackles attached to the pigtail strop, which means you can disconnect individual sheets but lose the benefit of a really smooth “y” where it gets dragged over the forestay in gybes.  Either way the basics are the same, and the goal of having the clew off the spinnaker away from the headstay is achieved.

LMSA On The Water Colloquium Optimist Dinghies

CYR recently had the opportunity to donate some time and gear for really neat project that’s introducing a whole new group of high school kids to sailing, DIY boatbuilding and local water issues.

 

The program in question is at Lindblom Math and Science Academy located in Chicago’s Englewood neighborhood.  A selective enrollment high school, Lindblom is highly regarded academically, and in particular for some of their innovative programming.  Several years ago they started colloquium classes, in which one day a week students take part in non traditional learning.  Niki Anderson from LMSA and Joey Harris from the park district started the On the Water program in 2012,  in which students learned about environmental issues on the great lakes, worked with Chicago Park District and organizations like Rozalia Project on harbor cleanup, and learned to sail on CPD’s 420 boats. Several of the students are seeking out colleges with sailing programs, and they’ve all been introduced to the sport and will hopefully keep it with them for life.  They also take on a hands on project every year; last year was building underwater robots-the amusingly named Sea Perch ROV-and this year they did something a little bigger and built Opti class dinghies.

The boats have been donated to Chicago Park District as of this week, and are hopefully on the water already teaching another generation how to trim steer and collide their way into sailing.  It was really impressive to see the results, especially considering two years ago none of them had ever been on a sailboat, and now they’ve turned out a pair of solid boats of their own.

CYR, along with North Sails and Oyster Bay Boat Shop, donated gear to get the boats rigged and canvassed.  The kids did great work with the parts and I can’t wait to see what they do next!

Harken Bolt Down Fairleads

Using the same simple concept behind low friction rings (aka ferrules, thimbles, ring blocks, etc) Antal and Harken offer a bolt down version, with Harken now offering a very wide range of configurations in 2 sizes.  New this year to the market, the applications are wide and the product solid.

Harken’s bolt down leads are available in 12 and 16mm sizes, and in single, double or triple configuration. The 12mm can handle 3/8″ line and has a 2000lb swl, and the 16 takes 9/16″ and 4000lbs.  

So far we’ve used this as a fairlead for a downhaul, but it’s easy to imagine many great places for this new gear, such as padeyes for soft attachments, replacing deck organizers, using 2 to make a 3d genoa lead system etc etc. 

One neat feature that the fairleads share with Harkens new line of winches is that they allow for easy single handed installation.  This is because if you use a hex head bolt to hold the hardware down, it will actually socket into slots on the hardware, meaning install is as easy as template, drill, install, and go below deck to tighten the nuts.  At least it if you’re in one of the few countries that uses something called the “metric” system.  The 12mm fairlead shown here works great if you use 6mm hex head bolts, but we only had 1/4″ fasteners, which were too large. The non metric solution is luckily pretty easy, and all you need is a grinder.  SImply grind 2 sides of the head down until the width measures 10.4mm ( .410″) and the head will fit fine.

                               The left bolt is an unmodified 1/4″ hex, on the right is the same, but after 30 seconds with a grinder

Once that’s done you will get the full benefit of this product, as the easy install is a huge plus.