One of my T10 customers asked a riggers favorite question this spring: “Blair is repainting my deck, and I’d like to bring it the harbor bare to have you put the layout in place, do you have time?” Taking a cue from Ghostbusters, the answer to that question is always “yes”
The goal was to minimize hardware and holes, and get controls in places where multiple people could use them easily.
The customer picked up these ferrule head jib tracks, and we did the install. The ferrule head is nice because you can cross sheet without leaning the jib lead inboard (illegal) but the downside is more friction. If the winches are decently powered this won’t be an issue, but I wonder about some boats with older/smaller/smooth winches and how well this will work. Does look very cool though!
Heres the starboard side of the same area. We went clutches forward on this boat, which has been around for a while, but added a bit of trickery in using Antal Deck Rings instead of deck organizers to bring the halyards aft. These bone-simple bits of gear work great for high load fairleads, padeyes etc. In this case they effectively and simply turn the halyards aft to the winches, but also provide an infinite angle fairlead so that the line can be tailed/hoisted from any direction. If I were doing bow on this boat, I’d expect to be hoisting my own jib from up by the shrouds.
In both of the above shots you can also see the vang leading aft (white/blue line)
The white blue line is the vang. The control is double ended, going to both sides of the companionway, and uses my favorite fairlead ( yes really ) the Harken Extreme Angle lead. This lead lets the line be cleated from almost 90 degrees to either side. This means on this boat anyone in the cockpit or pit can trim the vang, and anyone within reach of the tail can blow it. The other fairlead in this picture is in the little control box, which is for the underdeck twings. For jib sheet and spin sheet cleats, there are 2; one on the back of the house and one on the side of the cockpit seatback (not visible) This gives lots of options for cross sheeting and locking off lines.Here you can another Deck Ring, this time for the downhaul. Always tricky to lead, the downhaul on this (and most buoy racing boats) works best when close to the mast base. This lets the downhaul put a little aft pressure on the pole, which helps with square running, and additionally the closer it is to the mast base the fewer adjustments are needed when changing the guy angle. The Deck Ring is perfect for this as well, as it works in many directions and should last forever. You can see topping lift and downhaul are mounted on swivel bases up on the coaming. Blair did the plumbing for routing the twings under deck, so all I had to do was provide a good bit of cordage. We used regular sailmakers thimbles spliced into a piece of Alpha KMix cover in 7mm. This is a nice handling line at a good price, and the thimble attachment is nice and light, although carries the caveat of being more friction than a block.With 2 winches on deck, there are times during a buoy race where a bit of sail handling help is needed; imagine coming into the windward mark, trying to keep the jib in tight while loading the spinnaker sheet… the big boat style hobble saves hassle here, letting you clip the tylaska shackle into the jib clew, then freeing the jib sheet off the port winch. The hobble takes the load and keeps the jib in, so you can get around the mark in style. This one has a sliding loop splice to give it a bit of adjustability for different jibs and conditions, although I expect it to be a set and forget thing most days.Taming another corner of the jib we have a jin cunnigham system. A simple 2:1 through the hook leads to double ended 3:1′s for 6:1 total power. The sails on this boat have cunnigham attachments as a webbing strap, but if your sails have pressed rings, you can run the 2:1 right through the ring and save the extra hardware.The simple clean way to attach to a toerail is with a spliced loop on a Harken T2 block. The loops will last a long time, not damage rail or deck and are incredibly strong and light. We converted the customers old style “pinch” fiber backstay to the newer cascading style, which works great. A little detail here is how the lines are led. Using eyestraps and T2 blocks in the cockpit we keep it light and able to articulate properly, and mounting them to the sides instead of the floor keeps them snag free and clean (as lines on the floor trap dirt/water/feet) Also note the little deflectors that hold the line back and out of the way of the driver; just a little dyneema and a ring.
What a fun project; it’s nice to start from scratch. Looking forward to sailing reports and will note any changes here.