We have a new material for making 36.7 backstays, a heat set Dyneema double braid made with SK99 that meets the one design specs (breaks at 4727kg or 10421lbs) but comes in smaller and lighter than any other available option, at 6.1mm and weighing a mere 12oz with thimbles.
There are several options for finishing the bottom end of this stay
-Eye Splice With Thimble (shown) this is for use with the stock Lewmar backstay block
-Harken Lead Ring: this is a low friction ring, that adds 1.3oz to the weight and $20 to the cost. Lightweight and strong, but does make pulling the backstay harder
-Harken Black Magic Block: A roller bearing block that gets spliced to the end of the backstay, adds 3.23 oz and $195 to the cost
-Karver High Load KBO Block: A plain bearing block that gets spliced to the end of the backstay, adds 3.2oz and $240 to the cost
Solent stay made using Dynex Dux, custom thimble Tball top, OBB Multipass thimbles bottom, 4:1 purchase, held to the deck with custom loop and fastpin. When in use a 4:1 winch driven purchase will tension the stay, which will support a jib on bronze hanks. When not deployed, the fastpin makes removing the stay quick, and the integrated leash lets the crew lash the stay tight to the mastbase.
This one was a bit trickier for the oddsmakers in Las Vegas. We have a plain loop, formed by doing 72 diameter buries together, and the short bury splice. This splice is pretty common; it has a brummel to lock the throat, then a short (in this case 5″) bury. It’s a common fault in 12 strand splicing to make the buries too short, either by not having enough room, or plain laziness. Theres not much time saved, and I’m not sure that saving 4″ of rope is worth it!
The test has the loop in a single/vertical configuration, and the short splice in basket. This is to try and even the playing field, as the loop has 2 passes of rope and the short splice was obviously 2 single passes.
I was a bit surprised the loop broke first, although the result may have a bit of an * next to it, as the tope broke around the stainless steel quicklink, and not at the join or at the end of the splice. Looking closer at the quicklink, there was a tiny steel burr there that may have given the rope a rough surface to bear on. The 1/8″ Endura 12 has a rated strength of 2100lbs, so this isn’t out of line, but I’ve found NER Dyneema usually breaks well over the rated strength.
If the test was for anything other than fun value, I’d probably retest the loop after smoothing out the burr, but since this is just for kicks I let the result stand. Please don’t tell the International Riggers Casual Break Testing Organization, the last thing I need is an IRCBTO cease and desist letter.
Winner: The Short Bury Splice*
Metal or carbon dogbones are incredibly useful, strong and simple ways to terminate a line or integrate soft attachments. In the past I’ve either had them custom made from aluminum or steel, or cut lengths of steel or carbon. While this works, the custom ones are expensive, and the cut rod versions need lashing to keep them secure.
Much like spool shackles, these make all the sense in the world… once you’ve seen how they attach! A loop of line is passed through the grommet on the sail, then the dogbone is passed through the loop. When pulled tight, the loop cinches onto the dogbone and stays fast.
Continuing their tradition of high quality versions of existing tech, Tylaska has introduced their line of dogbones in aluminum and stainless steel. With working loads from 650 to 15000lbs, there a dogbone for every application here. CYR is stocking select sizes, and will be using these in a number of upcoming projects. Uses for Tylaska dogbones include termination of sheets, halyards and control lines like outhauls, custom loop shackles, bobstays and more. Also in stock are CYR’s range of custom stainless/aluminum dogbones for high loads.
Soft attachments are here to stay, and finding their way onto just about everything that floats! One of the coolest bits of gear to come from the movement is the dogbone loop. Essentially a covered loop with a peg they make a wonderful high strength connector. Used to replace stainless shackles, they can offer real improvements in weight and strength, with side benefits of greater articulation and less damage to gear. As part of a snatch block or floating block system they give you just the right amount of flexibility to align under load.
The existing options are mostly cut pieces of stainless or carbon, which works ok but can shake loose. I wanted to try a shaped dogbone that had some security designed into it, and this is the first draft. Works really well size and handling wise, with it keeping captive in the small end of the loop, and being shaped to fit into the open end easily, but not shake free. The real question was load testing, and so far we’re blown away at the numbers from even the smallest/weakest size, being at least 10tons. The “at least” comes from the fact that the 5/16″ dyneema initially used in the test failed first in every single test, so I’ve switched to the full-on covered loops that would actually be used on the boat in order to get proper numbers. For now it’s pretty safe to say that even the size 0 pegs are going to have a working load of 5T. More to come on this soon!
This is somehow the week of the loop! Made loops for 5 different boats in many different varieties. CYR now offers covered and uncovered loops and soft attachments for all sizes of boat. Super strong, light and incredible versatile, they’re not just about saving weight, they also offer lots of options that stainless doesn’t.
Here was todays haul; covered loops in different flavors, uncovered loops, and loops with both carbon and stainless dog bones.
Lots of soft hardware going on in this pic; its a code zero furler tack purchase that had to be removable each year, but would live on the bow most of the time. It’s an Antal thimble, a CYR loop, and a Tylaska soft shackle.
Contact CYR for more info, or to replace or inspect your existing soft hardware.