Chicago Yacht Rigging: Splicing Clinics

For Chicago sailors, winter feels especially long.  A great way to break it up and get some sailing prep in,  take one of CYR’s splicing clinics.

December 3-4 Columbia Yacht Club

Splicing 102:  Over 2 days, receive an introduction to modern cordage and learn to splice it with Kristian Martincic.  Students receive a comprehensive splicing kit with practice ropes.  Splices will be the 12 strand splice, tapered rope, simple loop, reeving eye, plus useful variants and tricks.

$300 including supplies and splicing toolkits

Saturday 10am-4pm 12pm-1pm lunch break
Sunday 9am-12pm, Bears Game

February 18 Chicago Yacht Club

Splicing 101: On Saturday morning, get an introduction to modern sailing cordage and learn to splice it! Includes a basic splicing kit and rope, and learn how to make the 12 strand splice in Dyneema. Light breakfast provided, and students are invited to stay for lunch afterwards.

$75 including supplies and toolkits

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Splicing Kits

002kitNow available, comprehensive splicing kits!  For an upcoming rigging clinic, we needed to supply tools to perform a number of different splices.  In the past,  12 strand clinics have needed only a few tools tossed in a bag with some rope. This class was a bit more involved so we needed needles, twine, torches and other gear not usually in someones boat toolbox.  While figuring the kits out, several of our “regulars” said they would like one as well, so it made sense to assemble complete kits and have them available for sale.

The most complete kit is our Deluxe Splicing Kit with Selma Fids This is a CYR tool roll, with a set of 5 Selma fids (4-13mm, a Swedish fid, the D Splice splicing puller, the BEST shears for cutting rope available, whipping twine, needles, splicing tape, a butane torch, a little soft tape measure and even a permanent marker.  Selling now for $19520161018_090156

The kit _I_ actually use in the field, is the Splicing Kit: Deluxe with Single Fid. It’s the same as the above kit, but with a single Selma fid (5.5mm) instead of the full set.  That is because I don’t use Selma fids for much besides pulling core into cover, and instead use the D Splicer puller for nearly all my splicing.  I do expect the full set of Selma fids to be more popular, but if you’re willing to learn to splice without fids-instead using measurements based on diameter-this is the way to go!0kitsinglefid

If you already have lots of the gear above in your kit, and all you want is an upgrade in the key tools,  try out the Basic Kit. This is just the Clauss shears, a Swedish fid, and the D Splicer puller. Comes in a bag instead of the tool roll, but again, this assumes you have things like twine and neeldes on hand.01basickit

Order online, or the old fashioned way, and as always, feel free to ask anything about these or other rigging products. Kristian@chicagoyachtrigging.com

 

Drilling Stainless

Often times when locating hardware, or planning a project you need to put a few choice holes in a fiberglass deck. Fine. Easy.  Sometimes it’s tapping into aluminum. Ok. Actually kind of fun!  Carbon has it’s own issues, but can make for an interesting project with a nice finish.  Stainless steel, however, has been something that I avoided drilling as much as possible for years and years.   It’s extraordinarily hard, work hardens in the blink of an eye, and generally is the dark god that demands the sacrifice of $30 drill bits.  In fact, the original title for this article was going to be some version of The Simpsons “So You’ve Decided to Ruin Your Life” pamphlet. 

But it doesn’t have to be so difficult, and it didn’t seem fair to give stainless such a bad rap.  Over time I’ve been given a few tricks from others, and come up with a few myself.  It’s still not enjoyable, and when quoting the project I usually inform the customer that there will probably be some new drill bits on the bill, but with patience and the right tools it can be just another step in a project.

I’ve always used cutting fluid, but recently a friend got me started on this wonderful stuff.

It’s called Tap Magic, and it’s designed just for this kind of nonsense; ie cutting or drilling into hard metals like stainless. The extra thick is-suprise-an extra thick version, which is great for drilling as it tends to stick to the surface and tool. It absolutely blows away cutting fluid in my opinion, and I anticipate the bottle being a real time saver for future projects. Caution:  your sense of smell will immediately confirm all the toxic warnings on the bottle, be very careful handling!

The absolutely essential part of the process is good drill bits. I really like cobalt bits with a titanium coating. Not cheap, but neither is time, and it’s way more expensive to extract that broken high speed steel bit than to just use the right one in the first place.  For pretty much all special tools and small parts, I go to www.mcmaster.com

For horizontal surfaces (and a few angles or vertical ones) I like to keep a ribbon of butyl rubber around.  You can read about why this is a great material to use on your boat here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck but below you’ll see how it has some uses on this project as well.

The first step here is to locate the hole with a center punch.  With aluminum I have no problem making a nice large dent to start the hole, as it makes it easier to keep the bit centered (this can be tough, especially when aloft)  With stainless however,  moving the material by impact seems to make it much tougher to drill, as it’s possible to work harden the material, even with a small impact.  So I like to keep the “ding” quite small, and take extra care with the drill. 

Above you can see the tiny dimple made with a punch.  Also, some black stuff?  That is the butyl rubber, and it’s there to make a small reservoir of the cutting fluid.  Having the butyl rubber around the hole means you can have a greater quantity of fluid, which keeps the tool cooler and makes sure you don’t run dry.  Neat.

Above you can see the reservoir, and the chips that have been removed.  What you can’t see is heat or smoke, which is a sure sign that your drilling is about to go a lot slower!  

Above you can see the shavings, which are nice and continuous, and not a series of chips.  In addition to the fluid, it takes a bit of technique to get this result.  Low speed on the drill, with decent pressure and a steady hand means you get the nice long shavings characteristic of a cool quick cut. I started with a pilot hole of 1/8″ before moving through a few sizes to 5/16″.  When the smallest hole was made, a bit of butyl rubber was used to plug the bottom in order to make the reservoir water tight again.

On the above project, the first hole towards the middle of the plate was done quite easily, with no breakage or mess.  The outboard most hole however, was still quite  tough as it was on/next to a weld, which completely changed the hardness of the material and made it quite hungry for drill bits!

If you ever do break a bit, the butyl rubber can be used again, as in a decently dry hole it does a great job of pulling out broken tools. 

Hopefully this helps the next time you’re faced with a piece of stainless that absolutely positively must be perforated!