Beneteau 36.7 Running Rigging 2015 pricing Fall discounts available

We’ve finally got our act together and have 2015 pricing drawn up for the 36.7

If you’re using 3di sails we strongly recommend matching it with an appropriate halyard.  Vectran lines move a bit too much for 3di, so we recommend Heat Set Dyneema (New England HSR) or if you absolutely insist we can PBO 

MAIN HALYARD (Best) HSR 9mm W polyester Cover+Wichard 5/16″ Shackle+bulk 510.66
MAIN HALYARD (Std.) Vectran 10mm w Wichard Shackle+clutch bulk 393.75
GENOA HALYARD (best) HSR JH No Shackle, 9mm  W/ Bulk 458.26
GENOA HALYARD (std) Vectran core 10mm Tylaska Shackle 490
GENOA HALYARD (std) Vectran core 10mm  No Shackle 345
SPINNAKER HALYARD 10mm Dyn Spin Hal W Tylaska and Ball 556.25
HSR Backstay with Dyneema overbraid 361.96
Genoa Sheets 10mm Endura Braid with Equiplite EACH 310.8
Genoa Sheets 10mm Poly Tech with Equiplite EACH 450.2
Spin Sheets 8mm SSC 192.88
Spin Sheets 8mm Euro 203.8
Afterguy Euro W Custom Donut and T8 400.1
Topping Lift Tapered SSC Empty eye for shackle 255.6
Backstay Control line 6mm SSC 111.5
Traveler Control Euro Cover Whip 100.16
Spin Pole Butt Lift 6mm Euro 73.84

Discounts in place:  through 11/19/14 take 10% off for fall savings

If you’ve purchased a 3Di sail from North Midwest, take an additional 5% off matching heat set Dyneema halyards!

Spinnaker Sheet Y Bridle

Took these for a mail order customer who need a pigtail to add to their assym spin sheets, so figured it wouldn’t hurt to have quickie instructions for one method of setting up a Y Bridle.  This is applicable to assymetric boats only,  that have a metal clew ring or similar eye at the clew.


To start with, youll need a pair of sheets with eyes spliced into the ends (yellow), a short strop (silver) with eyes at both ends (for shackle to sail attachment) or a single eye (for tie on attachment) 

First,  attach the shackle to the strop via larks head/ring hitch/luggage tag/whatever you want to call it.  Start by passing one eye of the strop through the bail on the shackle.

Then pull the eye over the shackle

Once you’ve got the eye over the shackle, pull the line tight so that it hitches tight to the bail of the shackle and looks like the below pic

Now, put the other end of the strop through BOTH eyes on the sheets themselves

Pull the shackle through the empty loop and pull tight, should look just like this

There are several other ways to configure this setup;  you can splice the y permanently, which works the same but is marginally lighter/cleaner, or you can have 2 shackles attached to the pigtail strop, which means you can disconnect individual sheets but lose the benefit of a really smooth “y” where it gets dragged over the forestay in gybes.  Either way the basics are the same, and the goal of having the clew off the spinnaker away from the headstay is achieved.

New Tylaska Thimbles

By now the aluminum ferrule or friction ring is pretty ubiquitous, but just a few short years ago when one was needed we’d have to get it custom made at one place, anodized at another and then figure out what to charge for it (usually a lot per ounce!)

These days every boatbuilder and hardware manufacturer seems to have an offering on the shelf, and thats good news for us as the options are broad, the prices low and the quality high.  Tylaska is joining the fray a bit late, but with the widest range of options, very nice finishes and good pricing.

Above is the spec sheet, since I couldn’t find it online, as well as a few samples. Up right is the FR7 ferrule, which has a working load of 1900, and it’s little friend below is the FR4, which has a 600 working load but is the size of a dime.  The FR4 is “cute” and makes me want to make a really complicated little RC boat so I could use it for runner blocks!

Also in the image, bottom left, are some of the other brands of thimbles we use.  Bottom left is the Antal 20.14, and the Schaefer 2012.  These are comparable in size to the Tylaska FR14, and one would expect similar working loads. The FR14 is 7000 SWL, and while the other 2 don’t list loads it’s safe to assume they’re similar (and that the line that fits and runs will probably be far weaker!)  For what it’s worth, the retail pricing is $40 for the Tylaska FR14, $20.40 for the Antal, and $22.70 for the Schaefer.  Quality wise, the Tylaska is the nicest, with the best machined radius’ and slickest anodizing, and the Schaefer is on the other end (although still very good!) with duller and slightly rougher finish.

CYR works with all the manufacturers, and can help you sort out which hardware best suits your project.

Tylaska Dogbones

Metal or carbon dogbones are incredibly useful, strong and simple ways to terminate a line or integrate soft attachments. In the past I’ve either had them custom made from aluminum or steel, or cut lengths of steel or carbon. While this works, the custom ones are expensive, and the cut rod versions need lashing to keep them secure.

Much like spool shackles, these make all the sense in the world… once you’ve seen how they attach!  A loop of line is passed through the grommet on the sail, then the dogbone is passed through the loop.  When pulled tight, the loop cinches onto the dogbone and stays fast. 

Continuing their tradition of high quality versions of existing tech, Tylaska has introduced their line of dogbones in aluminum and stainless steel. With working loads from 650 to 15000lbs, there a dogbone for every application here. CYR is stocking select sizes, and will be using these in a number of upcoming projects. Uses for Tylaska dogbones include termination of sheets, halyards and control lines like outhauls, custom loop shackles, bobstays and more. Also in stock are CYR’s range of custom stainless/aluminum dogbones for high loads.

Loops: or why the upcoming film “Looper” should be about rigging

This is somehow the week of the loop! Made loops for 5 different boats in many different varieties. CYR now offers covered and uncovered loops and soft attachments for all sizes of boat. Super strong, light and incredible versatile, they’re not just about saving weight, they also offer lots of options that stainless doesn’t.

Here was todays haul; covered loops in different flavors, uncovered loops, and loops with both carbon and stainless dog bones.

Lots of soft hardware going on in this pic; its a code zero furler tack purchase that had to be removable each year, but would live on the bow most of the time. It’s an Antal thimble, a CYR loop, and a Tylaska soft shackle.


Contact CYR for more info, or to replace or inspect your existing soft hardware.

Shackle Guards

Equiplites and other soft attachments are replacing stainless shackles on race boats, and one of the reasons is the soft dyneema parts are much kinder to carbon masts and paint finishes (not to mention heads) than stainless.  Lots of boats swear by their stainless J Locks and T12 shackles, but still want to keep their carbon clearcoat intact.  I’ve seen lots of solutions like neoprene socks and giant wads of tape, but the simplest and best looking is a velcro wrap.  The lads at North made up some of these little velcro wraps which we can stitch into the line next to your shackle when ordering new sheets. They protect boats and masts as well as heads, and also protect the shackle from snagging on other parts and opening.  $12 per wrap installed on new line.